Crate training for puppies is one of the easiest ways to deal with the challenge of housetraining a young puppy or even an older dog that has not be housebroken. Crate training works on the puppy's or dog's natural tendency to want to keep his or her own den area clean and free from soiling or waste material. Basically the crate replaces the "den" or whelping box, which the mother has already taught the puppy to keep clean.

Getting Started

The key components in using crate training successfully for a housetraining program include:

• Crate training for puppies needs to be comfortable and stress free for the puppy, especially when they are in the crate or becoming familiar with the crate.

• Line the crate with soft, washable bedding that forms a comfortable sleeping and relaxing area for the puppy or dog.

• Allow the puppy to enter and leave the crate at will, provide a few treats and toys in the crate to encourage the puppy or dog to go in, don't force the animal in.

• Spend some time around the crate with the puppy so he or she is comfortable in the area.

• Once they are going in on their own, close the door for a few seconds and then open it and praise the puppy.

• Gradually increase the amount of time the puppy is in the crate, encourage this to be the puppy's sleeping and safe area.

By making the crate a positive place, crate training your puppy will be simple and effective, but it will take effort on your part.

Crate Training and Puppy Housetraining

Once your puppy is going into the crate and is staying in there on their own you are ready to start the housetraining program. To do this it is important to feed the puppy on a schedule and know approximately how long after eating and drinking the puppy waits before toileting. Most puppies will have a delay of ten to twenty minutes, but smaller breeds may have to go to the bathroom within five minutes after eating. With this information then:

• Feed the puppy as usual, placing him or her in the crate that is in a visible yet quiet area of the room.

• Provide toys in the crate and monitor the puppy for any signs of anxiety or restlessness that may indicate they need to toilet.

• Just before the time you know the puppy normally goes to the bathroom after eating, remove him or her from the crate and take them outside to the toilet area.

• Wait five minutes and if the puppy doesn't go, return him or her to the crate without any negative consequences, then keep repeating this process every five minutes.

• If the puppy does go to the bathroom on the first trip, or when they do, give lots of praise and return them to the house, and leave the crate open in case they want to rest or relax.

Remember crate training puppies requires that the person in the house is on top of the crate training program. If you wait too long and the puppy does soil in the crate, don't punish the puppy, just clean the mess and start over. Housetraining can be simple using the crate training method, but be prepared for accidents and mistakes; learn and go on.

Puppies are often very susceptible to viral and bacterial problem and it is important to start dog vaccines as prescribed by your vet and your breeder. Before your puppy is vaccinated he or she is somewhat protected through the antibodies that the mother supplies in her milk. Puppies that are not kept with their mother for some reason are particularly at risk for infections as well as viral and bacterial diseases in their first few weeks of life. Each vaccination is required within a specific amount of time, with puppies getting the vaccination and then a series of boosters that ensure protection.

When To Vaccinate

Puppies are usually vaccinated approximately six weeks of age and then again at nine and twelve weeks. Often vets recommend a third booster at 16 weeks since some breeds are less likely to develop antibodies to protect the puppy when they are younger. There are also situations where puppies may need more frequent and aggressive types of dog vaccines if they are exposed to outbreaks of diseases such as parvovirus or they are exposed to large numbers of dogs when kenneled. Some puppies, especially those that are single dogs kept under very close supervision with no contact with other dogs typically need less aggressive vaccination programs.

Necessary Dog Vaccines

While there may be some variations between locations and geographic areas, most puppy and dog vaccines are pre-set and are given as combination shots. This prevents the puppy from having three or four different needles, rather everything is provided in one simple vaccine. The core dog vaccines for puppies include:

• Canine Distemper
• Parvovirus
• Hepatitis
• Coronavirus where a concern
• Leptospirosis where a concern

Puppies are typically not vaccinated for the last two until the second vaccine after six to nine weeks of age. Rabies, in most areas, is also a core dog vaccine but will not be administered until the puppies are over 12 weeks of age. Vaccinations for Lyme Disease are also provided at the same time where ticks are a problem.

Following up both with the initial shots for puppies as well as the series of booster shots is critical. Dogs, unlike people, need to be annually vaccinated to keep their immunity up. Some shots, such as the rabies dog vaccines, may last more than one year. Talk to your vet and get a recommended vaccination schedule for your area. Also talk to your vet if you are traveling outside of your region, there may be additional vaccinations required to prevent your dog picking something up while on the trip.

Identification

It is a great idea to have your puppy microchipped as soon as possible. Usually vets will complete the procedure as long as the puppy is physically big enough, which may be fairly young on larger breeds but a bit longer on the toy and small dogs. Talk to your vet about when this procedure can be completed, it is simple and done right in the office, usually along with the vaccinations.

In the mean time keep your puppy under your supervision at all times and use a durable, well fitted collar with identification tags in the event that he or she wanders away. When the dog is older you may also want to consider tattooing if he or she is a purebred.

Keeping up with dog vaccines and ensuring that puppies are properly vaccinated and wear identification will give owners peace of mind plus protect the puppy against many potentially fatal and common health concerns.

There are a great many of older dogs that have a lot of patience when it comes to being around puppies. There are, on the other hand, dogs that are not tolerant of puppies and puppies that are not tolerant of older dogs. Part of puppy training needs to include socializing your puppy with older dogs, but also in ensuring that senior dogs, especially those that have limited mobility or are in poor health are not overwhelmed by the presence of a new puppy in the house.

Puppy Behavior

Puppies typically engage in several behaviors that older dogs can find irritating, frustrating or just downright annoying. This is especially true when the older or senior dog is used to being the only dog in the house. In most cases a puppy is more likely to get additional attention, both because of the novelty of the puppy in the house as well as ongoing puppy training. Dogs, like any other type of animal, may appear to be acting jealous or aggressive towards puppies when the puppies try to constantly interact with the owners.

One key component of puppy training needs to be that the puppy has to learn to wait his or her turn to get attention. Sometimes the senior dog needs to have some one-on-one time with their owner and the puppy has to learn to sit and wait patiently for his or her turn. This can be accomplished through both socialization and puppy training that includes the sit and stay command as well as the down and enough commands.

Puppy Play

Puppies love to play and most older dogs that are well socialized and used to other dogs and puppies will also enjoy a romp around the yard or a game of chase. The problem is that older dogs tend to tire more quickly than puppies, however the puppies don't seem to understand this factor. Puppies can pester and irritate older dogs to play, resulting in an aggressive response by the older dog.

Owners need to be careful to monitor the play interaction between the senior dog and the puppy as too much activity for some senior dogs can result in joint and muscle pain and problems. Senior dogs with arthritis need to have regular, routine exercise but should not be exposed to highly strenuous exercise that can irritate the condition. While this is more a supervision issue than a puppy training concept, providing lots of routine exercise for the young dog will help prevent a lot of the demands on the older dog to play.

Using puppy training to help puppies and older dogs interact in monitored and control situations is beneficial to both dogs, just make sure to find time to spend with your senior dog as well as the new addition to the house.

Teaching your puppy or puppies to interact with other animals and children is all a part of training puppies and providing opportunities for socialization. Other dogs and puppies also need to become accustom to each other, which is likewise a part of the training program and routine. Puppies that don't get regular and positive interactions with children, other animals and other dogs are more likely to be timid or aggressive when encountering them in real world situations.

Kids and Puppies

Children and puppies really are a great combination in most cases. Kids that are old enough to responsibly hold, pick-up and work with puppies will greatly benefit from this interaction, as will the puppies themselves. Not all breeds are ideal for children, especially smaller kids under the age of approximately 6 to 8 years of age. Smaller kids are more likely to struggle with holding, picking up and controlling the puppy and are more likely to have difficulties in being consistent in training puppies.

Generally most breeders of toy and miniature breeds are very hesitant to sell their puppies to families with young children. This is because these very tiny puppies are extremely fragile and can easily be injured by even gentle play with a child. A dropped puppy is also a very serious concern to breeders as even falling a few inches can seriously injury toy and miniature breeds. Training puppies that are this tiny can also be a challenge and younger children are not patient and understanding enough to have this responsibility.

Training children how to interact with puppies and having them participate in certain aspects of puppy training is a great idea. Your child may also be able to participate with the puppy in obedience classes or competitions, further providing socialization and building the relationship.

Dogs, Other Animals and Puppies

Dogs and puppies, while of the same species, do not always get along well together, especially when the puppy first arrives on the scene. Training puppies to interact with other dogs and your existing dogs to get along with puppies needs to be structured and supervised to prevent any injury to either the puppy or the dog. Introducing other animals such as cats, pet birds, livestock or even pet reptiles should also be done the same way and included in puppy training. Keep smaller pets away from puppies and dogs that have a strong prey instinct as this is simply asking for problems.

Be sure to start the introductions slowly, allowing the dog and puppy to get used to each other's scent under a doorway or through smelling each other through a baby gate where the puppy and dog are physically separated. You want to avoid having the older dog feel jealous of the new puppy, so don't always hold the puppy and discourage the older dog from being around, consider having someone else hold the puppy and you work with the older dog.

Don't leave puppies and dogs unsupervised and together until you are confident that there is limited chance of any issues regarding dominance or aggression. As the puppy matures he or she will test the waters with the older dog, however usually growling and raised hackles are all that you will see.

Working with dogs and puppies, other animals and children and puppies should all be part of your puppy training program. Starting early with these socialization programs will help your dog become a very well adjusted and accepting dog, ideal for being around new people, animals and places.

The best answer to the puppy training question of when to start is simply as early as possible. Puppy crate training and even using some tried and true puppy training tips can help owners get started on the right foot with their new dog. Most puppy owners may not realize that puppy training was actually started within the first few days of the puppy's life with the mother dog and littermates as socialization and interactions with humans are some of the first and most essential training for a well rounded dog.

Puppy Training Tips

Some of the most important puppy training tips are actually very practical and just good common sense, although they may not be obvious to new puppy owners and those getting started with puppy training. The following are designed to help new owners get started with their training:

• Be consistent
  The worse habits of puppies and dogs are not developed because of the dog, they are allowed to develop by inconsistent owners and puppy training routines. If you allow the puppy to do something one way one day and expect something completely different the next, you are only going to confuse the puppy. Plus dogs, like people, will take the easy way out when given the opportunity.

• Use positive puppy training methods, not negative
  Puppies love to please, so praise them for doing the right thing. Ignoring your puppy for few minutes when they are doing something wrong is all it takes to let them know you are displeased. Don't yell, hit or roughly treat a puppy, this is cruel and abusive behavior and will severely damage your puppy's trust in you as the leader.

• Teach age appropriate commands
  Don't expect your puppy training routine to look like an adult dog training routine. Puppies need to learn the basics of come, sit and down, then when they are calmer, more sure of themselves and more focused they can learn commands like stay, heel and fetch.

• Reward approximations
  Puppies will need clues and cues that they are on the right track. If you notice the puppy starting to do the right thing, reward them immediately, gradually expecting more before you provide the praise and a small treat. Don't expect an eight week old puppy to run across your whole yard to get to you when you come, walk close to the puppy and reward them when they start in your direction, gradually increasing the distance as the puppy gains confidence and mobility.

Puppy crate training

Puppy crate training is another essential part of training. Puppy training tips for crates include:

• Make the crate a "good place"
  Add a few toys, comfortable bedding and encourage the puppy to spend time in the crate without being closed in or confined.

• Never use the crate as a punishment
  If the crate is seen as a place to do a time-out, your puppy is not going to want to be in there at all.

• Avoid accidents
  Don't leave the puppy in the crate for longer than he or she can go without toileting. You don't want the crate to become a bathroom, which it can if the puppy simply has no option but to go in the crate. If this happens don't punish the puppy – it was your fault not his or hers. Clean the crate and bedding and more closely monitor the time the puppy is confined.

Following these few simple puppy training tips for your puppy crate training and puppy training routines will help both you and your new pet get off to the right start.

If you purchase a puppy that has behavior problems at a young age, especially anxiety, there was probably a lack of puppy socialization in its early life. If you purchased the puppy from a puppy mill or large breeder, yes – there was a lack of puppy socialization, as there was little physical contact with the puppy other than worming, shots, and weaning. If you purchased it from a pet shop – you won’t know unless you have a pet shop that will give you the breeder information, or you can tell if the puppy is lovable and friendly, which requires prior knowledgeable.

About Socialization in Puppies

From the moment a puppy is born, it is being socialized. It is born with its eyes closed and its ears unable to hear, but it can feel the caress of the mother’s tongue and body. It can feel your hands when you pick it up, holding it and loving it. About two weeks later or so, when its eyes open and it can hear, the mother and you will be the first things it can see … other than the siblings in the same nest! That is what the beginning of socialization is about.

The mother, if she is a good breeder, is the most important teacher of all – in addition to you. She gently and firmly will correct the puppy, bringing into effect the hierarchy and pack modality that dogs instinctively have inside of them. The hardest thing for a caring person to do is not step in when she does this. Let her do what is natural and right for dogs, not humans. This is very important days in a puppy’s life, and makes them who they are in the future. And if the mother is cared for correctly, and is allowed out to exercise, given love, and lots of caring, this early training will be done correctly, as puppies naturally mimic their mother.

If the mother has been neglected and lacks in care, she will possibly turn mean or neglectful, eventually beginning to attack her puppies or turning away from them, biting and snapping when they approach her. Some of the puppies will also become aggressive and mean from fear, and also by imitating her. The others, at the lower end of this pack, will become fearful, shy, and may eventually turn into biters, as they are so afraid. They have not been taught to trust or love.

Older Puppies

When puppies are kept back longer than they should, they are socialized with the breeder, not their new owner. The main socialization is over at this time, and it will be harder on the puppy for socialization at this later date.

They are called “orphan puppies”, as they have been weaned from their mother, and their siblings are gone onto new families. Usually it is because they are too big, too small, not pretty, shy, or the wrong color – whatever the reason, they are left alone. Large breeders keep them back for breeding if they are a female, and sell them at cost to other breeders if they are a male, so they don’t have to care and feed them. Personally, I begin training them with the basic commands, to sell them at a higher price due to the training process: we name them, begin toileting #101, learn to “sit”, “no”, and “stay” for a few simple ones. The training process is what throws most new owners, so this is enough of an asset for the little puppy to sell them at 12 weeks, or older, partially basic trained.